Work In Luxe
01
You need to set a 2-carat emerald in a vintage Art Deco mounting. What are your specific concerns and approach?
This question evaluates the candidate's gemstone knowledge, technical judgment and preservation skills.
Answer example: Emeralds present unique challenges—they're relatively soft (7.5-8 on Mohs scale) and almost always have inclusions and fractures, often oil-filled to improve clarity. My first concern is the existing prongs or bezel on a vintage mounting. I would examine them under magnification for metal fatigue or previous repairs. I would never use heat near an emerald as it can damage oil treatments and worsen fractures. I would carefully check the mounting seat dimensions—if it's too tight, I risk chipping the stone during setting. I use only hand pressure with a brass pusher, never a hammer. The prongs must be perfectly smooth internally to avoid abrading the stone. I would set it slightly lower than a diamond to provide extra protection, and ensure prongs cover enough of the stone for security without obscuring its beauty. I would also recommend the client insure the piece and have it checked annually, as emeralds need more maintenance than harder stones.
02
What setting techniques are you most proficient in?
This question assesses the candidate's technical skills and specialization.
Answer example: I excel in prong settings for maximum stone visibility, bezel settings for security and modern aesthetics, channel settings for continuous stone lines, and pavé settings for maximum sparkle. I also perform specialty settings like tension settings and invisible settings. Each technique requires specific tools and skills that I have mastered through extensive practice.
03
How do you ensure stones are set securely without damage?
This question examines the candidate's precision and care in handling precious stones.
Answer example: I use appropriate tools and techniques for each stone type and setting style. I never apply excessive pressure that could damage stones. I check stone security by testing movement and ensuring prongs or bezels are properly formed. I use magnification to verify that settings are complete and stones are properly seated. Careful handling and proper technique prevent damage while ensuring security.
04
Describe your approach to setting different types of gemstones.
This question evaluates the candidate's knowledge of gemstone characteristics.
Answer example: Each gemstone type requires specific handling. Diamonds are the hardest but can chip if struck incorrectly. Emeralds are more fragile and require gentler techniques. I adjust my approach based on stone hardness, cleavage planes, and inclusions. I use appropriate tools and pressure for each stone type to ensure both security and preservation of the stone's integrity.
05
Walk me through your process for creating a micro-pavé setting on a curved surface like a ring shank.
This question examines the candidate's advanced technical skills and precision work methodology.
Answer example: Micro-pavé on a curved surface is among the most demanding setting work. I start by mapping the curve and planning stone placement—stones must follow the curve naturally without gaps or crowding. Using a microscope, I drill pilot holes with a 0.8mm ball bur, spacing them approximately 0.1mm apart for 1mm stones. The holes must be perfectly perpendicular to the curved surface, which requires adjusting my hand angle constantly. I create the seats at consistent depth—too shallow and stones sit high, too deep and they sink. I set stones one row at a time, using a beading tool to raise tiny prongs (grains) from the surrounding metal. Each grain must be identical in size and placement. I use a 0.4mm graver to cut bright cuts between stones, creating the signature sparkle channels. The entire process for a half-eternity band takes 8-12 hours. The result should look like a continuous river of diamonds with barely visible metal.
06
What tools are essential for stone setting work?
This question assesses the candidate's technical knowledge and tool proficiency.
Answer example: Essential tools include various gravers for cutting seats, pushers for positioning stones, pliers for forming prongs, and specialized hammers for securing settings. I use magnification equipment for precision work and various measuring tools for accuracy. I maintain all tools meticulously and understand how to use each tool effectively for specific setting tasks.
07
How do you handle setting stones in vintage or antique jewelry?
This question evaluates the candidate's restoration skills and historical knowledge.
Answer example: I approach vintage pieces with respect for their historical value and original craftsmanship. I carefully analyze existing settings to understand the original techniques used. I use compatible methods and materials that match the period. I document all work and ensure that any modifications are reversible. Preservation of the piece's character is as important as functional repair.
08
Describe a challenging stone setting project you completed.
This question examines the candidate's problem-solving abilities.
Answer example: I once set a large emerald in a vintage ring where the original setting was damaged. The challenge was creating a new setting that matched the period style while ensuring the stone's security. I had to work around existing metal and create a setting that looked original. The project required careful planning, specialized tools, and multiple fittings to achieve the perfect result.
09
How do you ensure consistent quality across multiple pieces?
This question evaluates the candidate's consistency and work methods.
Answer example: I follow standardized procedures for each setting type and maintain consistent techniques. I use templates and jigs when appropriate to ensure uniformity. I work at a steady pace that allows me to maintain quality rather than rushing. I regularly compare my work to approved samples and make adjustments as needed. Quality control is integrated into every step of my process.
10
How do you stay current with stone setting techniques and trends?
This question examines the candidate's commitment to continuous learning.
Answer example: I study new setting techniques and attend workshops to learn from master setters. I examine high-quality jewelry to understand different approaches and styles. I experiment with new tools and methods while respecting traditional techniques. I also follow industry publications and attend trade shows to stay informed about trends and innovations in stone setting.